Houghton Tasting 2016

As one gets older it becomes more and more apparent how little you know! It’s not supposed to work this way – you’re supposed to get wiser. And of course you do, but with wisdom comes the inevitable revealing of more and more unknowns…

And so it was with my recent visit to Houghton winery in the Swan Valley, for a special tasting courtesy of Kasia from Distinction Wines and John from Lamont’s.

Whilst other wineries in the region such as Sandalford, Mandoon, Upper Reach and Sittella had all been visited by me in the recent past, Houghton seemed to end up on the cutting room floor. Perhaps it was the over emphasis on the “strip label” entry level wine (in my mind at least) but the visit in April 2016 certainly opened my eyes.

But I digress… Kasia organised 20+ wines from the Houghton collection (including some unreleased and small batch wines) and access to the private tasting room where we commenced battle. Working through the range with John Jens and Fine Wine Club’s Barry Weinman, I realised just how much I still had to learn – and how quickly the pros can taste, spit and note!

The wines were on the whole, very good, with examples at every price point. In the mid-priced category, I thought that the Small Batch Rojo Grande 2015 was the pick of the bunch. A fine example of a GSM, medium intensity sweet spice and cherry on the nose with high tannins (drying), medium acid, plum and cloves on the palate. 13.5% alcohol and very good wine (91 points) at $25.

In the slightly more premium category ($35) the 2011 Wisdom Cabernet Sauvignon was a standout. Medium+ intensity of cassis, eucalypt and honey on the nose with fine high tannins, medium acid, medium+ alcohol (13.5%) and body of black fruits, plum and black currant leaf. This is a very good wine (93 points) which will reward another 5 to 7 years cellaring.

At the top end of town we tasted the 2012 and 2013 Gladstone’s, and the 2011 and 2012 Jack Mann, all very good to excellent wines sitting at 95 points or greater. The best of this grouping was the 2011 Jack Mann although I wrote a note for the softer 2012 – a clear, dark garnet wine with legs developing and medium+ intensity black berry fruits, cigar box and a touch of eucalypt on the nose. Medium+ soft tannins, medium acid and medium+ alcohol (14%) with medium+ body, finish and flavours of black berry fruits and vanilla. An excellent, premium priced ($110) wine (96 points) which can be drunk now but will benefit from an extended period in the cellar (15+ years).

A thoroughly enjoyable and educational afternoon.

Gipsie Jack Langhorne Creek Malbec 2014

Gipsie Jack Malbec 2014
Gipsie Jack Malbec 2014

A clear, deep, purple wine with a thick rim and tears. A clean, developing, medium intensity nose with plum, blueberry, hint of violet and subtle vanilla.

Dry on the palate with medium+ acid, medium+ alcohol (14.5%) and medium soft tannins. Medium+ bodied and finish. Medium flavour (perhaps slightly overshadowed by the alcohol) of black berry fruit (blackberry, blueberry) and touch of blackcurrant.

This is a very good wine (91 points), a creation from the partnership of John Glaetzer and Ben Potts. Can drink it now but it has the potential for aging up to 5 years. Displaying excellent value for money in the mid-priced category, at under $20 from your local retailer.

Kalleske “Clarry’s” GSM 2015

A cleClarrys GSM 2015 1ar, medium, purple wine with thin pale legs. On the nose clean and developing with a medium intensity of raspberry, backed plum and cloves. Some oak treatment evident.

A dry wine with medium+ fine tannins, medium acidity and a medium body. The finish is a little longer than the body would suggest. Flavours on the palate support the nose, crushed red spectrum berries (raspberry) and plum, and some savouriness in the mix. Medium+ alcohol (14%).

This is a very good wine (92 points) that integrates the three grapes well in the Southern Rhone style and drinks better than its price (mid-priced) would suggest. Can enjoy it now but it has the potential for aging 5 to 7 years.

Kalleske “Merchant” Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

20160131_000120160131_0002A clear, deep, purple wine with thin pink legs evident. On the nose clean and developing with a medium+ intensity of black fruits – blackcurrant, blackberry – and hints of black olive and aniseed. Some vanilla suggesting judicious oak treatment.

A dry wine with high, firm tannins with structure for aging. Medium+ acidity with a medium+ body and finish. Medium+ alcohol (13.5%) with juicy blackcurrant and black cherry on the palate.

This is an outstanding wine (93 points) that punches above its mid-priced category. Let the wine breath a bit before drinking and enjoy it now but it has the potential for aging 10 to 15 years.